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A close shave.
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Pep
600RPM



Joined: 14 Jun 2021
Posts: 624
Location: Georges Hall, NSW

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2021 8:34 am    Post subject:

FRANK BASILE wrote:
Pep, I usually every 3mths change the oil and filter,and have a bit of a shake around underneath,and 6mthly pump a bit of fresh grease into the F/e and steering,it appears in hindsight I could have picked this up a couple of months ago,as described the forward lower control arm bush[HK] had wound itself out,the build up of grease around these things would have hid the problem,[I will now keep them clean],the irony was ,that getting the bushes unscrewed from the donor vehicle replacement control arm required some extra force via a breaker bar on the socket and an application of CRC,this vehicle looked as if it had never been greased since the late 60,s................Frank.


I hear you Frank...but you don't see half as much as you do when its 7 or 8 feet off the ground and you walk under it. How many times has your scenerio happend to others and were fortunate enough not come to grief ?...I'd bet many.....I know of one that I mentioned a while ago, and AuotCol had the same thing happened to him...Its just that we all seem to avoid crawling under cars the older we get...A hoist would be great to own...but I've got no room for one, so the local servo is my next best option. The owner of the one near me has given me an open invitation to use his whenever its vacant...I know he likes to see the old 34 in his service station, it gets a lot of attention from his customers.
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Pep
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gregwapling
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Jun 2021
Posts: 288
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2021 8:48 am    Post subject:

I seem to remember early days with the Chev (drove it on permits for 4 years). One day I was out crusing and the steering felt a bit sloppy. Pulled over and the nut that held the steering tie rod end on had come off and the tie rod was dragging on the ground. What amazed me was that I could still drive the car like that. Which I did to a friends place where I replaced the tie rod end and went on my way. Made sure I had the split pin in this time.
(Just like Janet did)

When the Chev first went on the road it took about 6 months of "shake down" where I would go over every nut and bolt before I was satisfied the car was tight. There was always one or two loose bolts somewhere.
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Greg Wapling
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FRANK BASILE
200rpm



Joined: 07 May 2021
Posts: 253
Location: MELBOURNE

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2021 2:13 pm    Post subject:

Looks like another close one Greg,what front end was involved with your incident?.Aside to Pep I agree with your comments re the hoist,they certainly widen the scope for scrutiny,I had thoughts many years ago of doing a pit in the garage to get walking underneath,to achieve the same outcome,however I remembered a mate having one in the 60,s that always filled with water.,also when I was serving in the RAAF,the Base at East Sale had a hobby hangar where cars and projects were worked on,including an FJ where someone was attempting to fit a Y block,outside was a pair of drive on ramps that allowed you to walk under the car,on the same theme I have seen ads in US rodding mags for home hoists,these are promo,d with a vehicle up in the air and another parked underneath.........................Frank.
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Guest






Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2021 3:00 pm    Post subject:

Over here in Canada Ted pulled into his driveway in his Olds and the lower right A arm snapped
in half, He had just been on the freeway . He said it looked as if someone had taken a
chop saw to it, clean cut right in half . NO amount of inspection could have predicted
this, it happened because the car had been lowered. When ever he hit a bump the force was put
onto parts that werenít designed to with stand them. Maybe we should all consider the fact that
when the car's were designed they were made for a specific application, and when we alter them,
whether it be narrowing a diff, lowering an olds or what ever, they stop functioning the way they
were meant to, That's why the engineer reports are important (still a pain, But important).

Forgive my little rant, but Iíve seen some stupid things.
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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2021 3:02 pm    Post subject:

by the way that post was from me, Tyson.
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FRANK BASILE
200rpm



Joined: 07 May 2021
Posts: 253
Location: MELBOURNE

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2021 7:00 am    Post subject:

Yes,that is something else to take into consideration,I originally had aftermarket lowered and stiffened springs,every bump ,was "bang",and riding over an uneven section of road, that is if the left front or the right front hit a raised section the Rod would basically lift in a twisting motion,the suspension was actually inoperative,some 5 years ago I fitted standard springs,and now all but deep pot holes are ridden smoothly,no thumping and banging being the norm any more,the suspension is working as intended................Frank.
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gregwapling
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Jun 2021
Posts: 288
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2021 7:57 am    Post subject:

HR crossmember sectioned into chassis about 2", HR upper and lower arms, HQ spindles, discs and calipers, rear mounted shortened Commodore rack, HR Control arms and tie rods. 2" lower HD springs and Koni adjustable shocks.
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Greg Wapling
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FRANK BASILE
200rpm



Joined: 07 May 2021
Posts: 253
Location: MELBOURNE

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2021 9:27 am    Post subject:

Quite a combo you have there Greg,I was getting into the theme of doing mods that do not impair greatly on the original operation of the front end,in my case the springs were lower but they had obviously been stiffened to the point where they were effectively inoperable,I did notice at the time that the lower control arms were angled upward slightly,tyres were wearing unevenly and becoming unroadworthy after some 9-10mths of use[daily driver] .I had various alignments ,and all sorts of compensation settings done to no avail at big name places,since the spring change the ride quality improved,lower arm is parallel to gnd at normal pos,and with my last tyre change some 2yrs ago,and a wheel alignment done by one of the ASRF discount participants[Boronia Tyres] ,there is still plenty of meat on the tyres with no probs..........Frank.
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johnno402002
Rookie


Joined: 28 Jul 2020
Posts: 40
Location: wallsend

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2021 8:52 pm    Post subject:

Hi Frank,

If I remember correctly, those steel bushes on HK's have an interference fit on the outer thread where it screws into the arm, they should be very hard to get out. I'm not totally sure of this, last one I rebuilt was probably 20 years back, but I think that new bushes were a few thou oversized on the outer thread. If you screw one out of an existing arm, it probably won't stay in any arm you screw it back into.

Of course I could be talking through my hat

I'd be cleaning the outer thread and the hole in the arm with acetone and using some locktite on it.

HT / HG were totally different in this area, as you say.

regards,

John
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FRANK BASILE
200rpm



Joined: 07 May 2021
Posts: 253
Location: MELBOURNE

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2021 6:52 am    Post subject:

You are right johnno,I actually had new replacement bushes stashed away for some future overhaul,which I used,I also indicated that I replaced the control arm,as when the control arm dropped down on the front, the rear section was bent ,I was going to straighten it,but if it was not perfect then I would have trouble aligning the threads,and risk stripping same.................Frank.
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